Updated: Mar 6
STEP 5: ALL ABOUT THE LITTLE DETAILS
When working with a tailor I have learned to go over all the minor details that make up the suit. These things may not be apparent at the beginning of this process, but I can guarantee you they are crucial. You should bring an inspiration image, and tell your tailor "this is what I want". However, there are various specifics that need to be discussed thoroughly after getting your measurements taken.
For instance, do you want a double breasted or single breasted suit? A single breasted suit is more common. It is a great choice for any occasion. The double breasted suit is more for the men who are not afraid to take risks. For my walking tall, bold, presence demanding, death defying fellas. Ok, I may be exaggerating a bit, but you cant deny that a double breasted suit makes a statement.
Do you want a three button, two button or one button closure? I recommend two buttons, it is a more modern construction. Also, you may want to add two breast pockets inside the jacket, one for your cell phone and one for your wallet.
Depending on what kind of mobility you require from your suit will determine whether you choose side, center, or no vents. Also, keep in mind that every one of these options will elevate the budget slightly, because of the craftsmanship required to achieve this detail. However, for a more refined solution you will want to go for the side vents. This is because the placement of the vents will be along the pivot points of your hips, and the back flap will cover your buttocks. Therefore, you will have a more contoured garment which matches your natural body movements.
Will peak, notch or shawl lapels look best on you? The answer to this question will come down to your personal preference. For instance, notch lapels are a more modern construction, and they look great on everyone. Peak lapels are a bolder choice, and shawl lapels are more appropriate for tuxedos. However, what can damage the look is the width of the lapels. If you have more of a narrow frame, you want to stay away from wide lapels as they will emphasize the narrowness of your shoulders. On the other hand, if you have more of a built frame, a thinner lapel will emphasize your broad shoulders and make you look out of proportion. I have found that three to three and a half inches on the lapels is a good range for most builds. Remember it's very important to go for a test fitting to make sure the proportions of the jacket work for your body type.
Do you want the buttons on the sleeve to be functional? Or do you want them fixed? I would recommend operable buttons if your budget permits. They take a lot more work and become an additional expense. However, this detail will add an extra touch of elegance to the sleeves.
Also, the pocket style is one of the most important details of the suit, because it is one of the most noticeable visual elements of the jacket. There are a few different styles, but the ones I would recommend are the flap or the besom pocket. They are the most stylish, and timeless choices.
You Also Need Pants Don't You?
We have gone over the top portion of the garment with intense detail, lets move on to the pants shall we? In the previous article I briefly discussed the purpose of a suit, and how important it is for your trousers to fit perfectly. It is up to you to decide how would you like to set the adjustability around your waist. The two main solutions for this are either an adjustable side tab with buttons or an adjustable buckle strap. If you find that your weight fluctuates, I recommend going with the adjustable buckle. This allows for a larger range of adjustment.
Other items to consider are the angle of your pocket. Whether or not to specify pleats or a flat front, and the cuff of your pants.
When it comes to the angle of the pockets, I personally suggest a ninety degree angle or vertical construction. Due to the fact that they will line up with the outer seams of the pants. This will allow for a more refined finish.
With regards to the front of your pants, always go with a flat construction. Pleats should be saved for heavier builds, because they give the pants more room around the thighs. Even though flat front pants are modern and slimming, this solution may not always work for a heavier build. Flat front pants on a larger build would accentuate the mass of the thigh area, due to the lack of fabric around the thighs. Another reason is that if you decide to proportionally taper the pants, the leg opening may end up being too large, defeating the purpose of having a modern streamlined outfit.
Finally, you must decide whether to cuff or not to cuff. Un-cuffed pants have become more popular recently with the advent of fast fashion stores. This stems from the fact that they are easier, faster and cheaper to manufacture. They can also be easily adjusted in case they were made too long. However, if you can afford cuffed pants, go with them. The reason for the higher cost is because of the additional material and precise needlework required to achieve this detail. For the men with exquisite taste, this is a decision you wont regret. You will be labeled as a connoisseur of fine fashion and taste.
Now that you know how to look fantastic in your new suit. It's time to go shopping for the finishing touches. The accessories that will add that extra oomph to your outfit. See you on the next one!
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